Santi Jewels: Tech tycoons provide rich seam for Indian diamond upstart

Following one’s father into business is a well-trodden path but one the pursuer does not always welcome. In fact, rebellion at an early stage seems par for the course, as was the case for Krishna Choudhary, a 10th-generation jeweller whose ancestors supplied exquisite gems to India’s maharajas and noble families in the 18th century. His father, Santi, still works from the family’s opulent ancestral home in the old city of Jaipur, where Choudhary grew up surrounded by 18th-century frescoes and sumptuous, museum-quality jewels and artefacts. Upon finishing school, however, Choudhary had only two business interests: pursuing either hospitality or the arts. “Whatever your parents say, you always want to do the opposite,” he says, echoing a sentiment that will be familiar to many.

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The Indian designers melding modernity with Mughal motifs - Shanti Choudhary

A new look at traditional Emirati clothing; in conversation with Pierre Alexis Dumas, artistic director of Hermès; and why private jets are no longer the preserve of billionaires and celebrities

India is the land of colour: of ruby reds, emerald greens, sapphire blues and the countless hues of diamonds, from vivid yellow to the rare, softly luminous white that emerged from the legendary Golconda mines. The country is as famous for the vivid cast of its jewellery as it is for its spectacular architecture and exquisitely embroidered textiles.

The jewellery that sparkles in the vitrines of India’s family jewellers today owes its stylistic roots to the Mughal emperors who ruled India for 300 years until 1858. They maintained a court renowned for its wealth, high culture and love of precious objects, in particular jewellery.

Akbar I, who ruled until 1605, and his son Jahangir, were obsessed with jewellery, while Jahangir’s son Shah Jahan was a connoisseur of gemstones and carvings. The emperors had first pick of all the gems that came out of their mines and after Shah Jahan’s son Aurangzeb captured Golconda, the Mughals controlled the only known diamond mine in the world at that time.

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India is the land of colour: of ruby reds, emerald greens, sapphire blues and the countless hues of diamonds, from vivid yellow to the rare, softly luminous white that emerged from the legendary Golconda mines. The country is as famous for the vivid cast of its jewellery as it is for its spectacular architecture and exquisitely embroidered textiles.

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Made to last, handed down through generations and routinely remodelled and repurposed – the jewel is perhaps the original recyclable luxury. From 19th-century Roman “archaeological revival” designs set with coins, cameos or intaglios to Cartier’s spectacular 1920s Egyptomania jewels centred on faience scarabs and amulets, history has long cast its spell. But with recycling and reusing high on today’s social and cultural agenda, it’s hardly surprising that contemporary designers are incorporating more antique or ancient elements into their creations.

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Jewel Heritage: Krishna Choudhary’s Santi Jewels

Museum-worthy gems. Contemporary settings. Sky-high jewellery. Krishna Choudhary’s Santi Jewels combines the opulence of India’s erstwhile maharajas with a thoroughly modern sensibility.

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A New Generation of Indian Jewelry Designers Uses Family History to Create Contemporary Pieces

Jeweler Krishna Choudhary pulls out a box from his safe and then slowly opens the velvet case to reveal a mesmerizing 150-carat sky-blue star sapphire. The stone fits snuggly in the palm of my hand, and looking at it is akin to gazing into a pool of water. But, alas, it isn’t for sale.

Jessica Diamond introduces the stars whose jewellery is coveted by aficionados everywhere. Photographs by Charles Nègre. Styling by Janina Pedan

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Jeweler Krishna Choudhary pulls out a box from his safe and then slowly opens the velvet case to reveal a mesmerizing 150-carat sky-blue star sapphire. The stone fits snuggly in the palm of my hand, and looking at it is akin to gazing into a pool of water. But, alas, it isn’t for sale.

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